Sunday, May 20, 2012

Pappardelle Bolognese


My spice cabinet just celebrated it's one millionth ingredient: Patum Peperium.  The name "Patum Peperium" sounds elegantly strange doesn't it?  Well, it's not.  It's anchovy paste.  Why did I buy elegantly strange anchovy paste?  Because the spice section at my local Central Market is pretty spectacular and it lures me in every time.  Also, because I was making Mario Batali's Bolognese later that night and he's always going on about using only the freshest ingredients. 
We all get hammered over the head about good ingredients and using the freshest ingredients.  "Always, always use Parmigiano Reggiano" says Mario Batali.  "Use really good vanilla" says the Barefoot Contessa.  "I make my own toothpaste" says Alice Waters.  Sometimes it's easy to dismiss it all as snobby nonsense.  Then you take a bite of this Bolognese made with high quality ingredients and you know why.  Here's the lineup:  farmer's market veggies, Culatello Pancetta, veal and pork (the best you can find), fresh handmade pasta, good olive oil and, of course, Patum Peperium.  The result was rather dazzling if I do say so myself.  There was a lightness from the pasta dough which soaked up all the flavors of the deep, robust flavor from the Bolognese.  It was probably one of the best pasta dishes I've ever made.  I did alter Mario's recipe slightly.  Mario's version calls for no fresh herbs or anchovy paste.  I'm sure his is delicious his way too, but I figured a little extra flavor never hurt anyone.
Here's what you'll need:
1 pound pappardelle, fresh if it's available
5 tablespoons good extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons of butter
1 carrot, finely diced
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 rib celery, finely diced
1 clove garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil, plus 1 tablespoon for garnish
1 pound veal, ground
1 pound pork, ground
1/4 pound pancetta (or slap bacon) ground
1/2 tube tomato paste
1 tablespoon anchovy paste
1 cup milk
1 cup dry white wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parmigiano Reggiano shavings for garnish
Here are the instructions:  In a 6-8 quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat.  Add the onions, celery, carrot, garlic, rosemary, oregano and sweat over medium heat until the vegetables are translucent and soft but not browned, about 10-15 minutes.
Add the veal, pork and pancetta and stir into the vegetables.  Turn the heat up to medium-high and continue stirring to keep the meat from sticking together.  Cook until browned.  Add the tomato paste, anchovy paste, basil, milk and wine and simmer over medium-low heat for 1 to 1 1/2 hours.  Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, place a large pot of water on to boil for pappardelle.  When boiling, add salt and pasta and cook to al dente.
When ready to eat, the cooked papparadelle should be added to the saucepan with the bolognese and tossed so the pasta is evenly coated with the sauce.  Garnish with shaved Parmigiano Regiano and fresh chopped basil.
This is the case of good ingredients doing all the work for you.  And it proves the point that to make great food at home, you don't necessarily have to be a whiz in the kitchen.  Sometimes you just have to be a really good shopper. 

No comments:

Post a Comment